MAKING MASKS: Plaster Bandages Weight

1. • rozani 4 years, 3 months ago

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   • Hi There.

     Looks like I need to learn more about the applications of this plaster bandage technique for mask making. To Jonette and Adrene, as well as others who have used plaster bandages for masks I ask the following:

     How light is the plaster? Do you vary the layers to control the weight? What does it feel like when dry?

     Thanks.

     Rozani

2. • AlyssaRavenwood 4 years, 3 months ago

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   • Plaster bandage masks are heavy and easy to break. 2-3 layers are recommended for strength. It feels like a plaster cast when dry, hard with a rough texture.

     They work well when you need an inexpensive and quick way to make a mask. They are a fun and easy mask to make with kids and can be completed in one session.

     They would not be good for an extended performance run but are suitable for a costume party or for a very short performance run.

     To add features to the mask you can shape aluminum foil into shapes like a nose, eyebrows, horns, and attach to the mask using more plaster bandage strips.

     To smooth the rough texture you can cover the dry mask surface with acrylic modeling paste or with spackle. Apply a layer of paste, then dip your finger in water and smooth it over the surface.

     My favorite brand is Gypsona; the plaster is smooth and thick. It can be purchased at http://www.artmolds.com/

     Hope that helps.
     - Alyssa
     www.ravenwoodmasks.com

3. • rozani 4 years, 3 months ago

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   • Thanks Alyssa.

     Very informative and I appreciate the URL link also.

     Rozani  

4. • 4 years, 3 months ago

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   • Arrrggghhh! My cat just erased my whole text! Here goes again:
     My experiences have been very different from those of Alyssa. For many years, I made plaster bandage masks for theater and dance performances and they held up very well. Sometimes they were needed for as many as thirty performances. I currently teach maskmaking workshops for decorative masks and they also hold up well.

     The only problem I recall is about 30 years ago, I made a whole bunch of masks for a dance production and much later, the masks developed a craquele (crazed) surface. I think now that it was probably an incompatability between the paint and the sealer.

     The masks I make weigh about 128 - 200 grams (about 4 1/2 - 7 ounces), but most are around 140 grams (5 ounces). I don't consider that heavy. I use three layers of plaster bandage, the kind I buy in rolls from the apothecary. I've seen plaster bandage sold at craft shops. Maybe they are heavier. They are MUCH more expensive!

     I build up features using either papiermache or more plaster bandage (you can model with it, but it is messy -- papiermache is more lightweight). If I haven't added extra bits, I smooth out the surface with my fingers, using a little wet plaster made from the excess dry plaster that fell off the bandages before they were wet. I coat the mask with white pva wood glue, then paint with acrylics. I seal with varnish or more white glue, which dries transparent.

     The masks are quite durable. I don't think they'd shatter or break easily. The pva gives them a sort of elasticity and strength.

     End of tutorial  
     If you have any questions, let me know.
     Jonette

5. • rozani 4 years, 3 months ago

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   • Thanks Jonette.

     Very interesting. I have concluded that the application of plaster bandages is more suited to some and less suited for others. It is all relative to the individuals preferences and needs.

     I appreciate the input from you and Alyssa. It has been a good topic for debate.

     Rozani

6. • Adrenne 4 years, 3 months ago

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   • I've only been making my plaster-gauze masks for just a few months, and am not as experienced as Jonette, but I will tell you how I do mine.

     I usually do two layers of plaster gauze on each face and don't wait for it to dry between layers. I sometimes do one layer, but that makes for a very delicate mask and will break easily if not careful in handling it (the one layers are my favorites and turn out so much prettier). After my model takes the mask off, I mix a small amount of plaster of Paris (the good stuff), or precious stone and "paint" over the entire mask with a brush or my fingers. I then lightly sand any rough spots and fill in where needed. I do all the sanding, filling in, etc. while the mask is still wet. It's easier for me to do it this way. I know they are dry when I look at them under a bright light, or in the sunlight, and don't see any "dark" patches or "water" spots. I let it dry for five or six days, just to be sure they are dry. They feel heavy when wet, but get lighter as they dry.

     The masks are very light weight (around the weight of Jonette's, lighter if I use just one layer of plaster gauze. The more layers of plaster gauze you use, the heavier the mask is. Although messy at first, I've learnt how to make them with minimum mess.   

     I paint them with acrylic paint most times, but have used regular craft paint as well. After they are painted, I spray a polyurethene, or clear fish matte coat on them, then add the embelishments.

     It's really not as hard as some may think. I used straws for the nose openings when I first started, but have learnt how to do the nose without them, and my model has no problems breathing. I'm working on incorporating the ears also. This is a little tricky, but it can be done, and earplugs with a little cotton over the ear opening keeps the ear dry and safe as well as keeping plaster from going inside the ear.

     Some of my masks are now in the gallery, if you'd like to see them. The Jester (my daughter's employer's face) and Little Warrior (my 3 yr. old granddaughter's face) are my most recent ones. The others are some of the very first ones I did while learning to make the masks.

     Adrenna

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