MAKING MASKS: Sealing Papier Mache,,

1. • Anonymous 2 years, 10 months ago

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   • Hi,
     I've been making masks for some time, but I have a problem. I work in papier mache, and when people wear the masks and breath on them - after a while they absorb the moisture and lose their shape. In extreme cases they become quite 'plastic' in feel, and floppy.
     I thought that the layers of gesso, paint and varnis would have been ehnough to protect the paper from moisture - but it seems I was wrong. Does anyone have any tips for further sealing papier mache? Any help would be very greatly appreciated.

2. • Anonymous 2 years, 10 months ago

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   • Have you ever tried a two part resin? The one I use, sets up in three minutes into a plastic.
     Pam

3. • Anonymous 2 years, 10 months ago

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   • I've had good luck with Sculpt and Coat, available at http://sculpturalarts.com/. This will make your masks mostly water resistant, and a lot stronger too.

4. • Anonymous 2 years, 10 months ago

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   • I too make masks, mine are for Theatre.
     I am worried abou the same things, although my masks last a much longer than previously, because I coat the insides with a glue called Weldbond. It is like a superior white glue. Much more resistant. But my masks have not been used everyday for hours at a time yet, except for myself when I manipulated giant puppets for three days straight wearing the mask.

     I was thinking of trying two-part resin, such as countertop varnish (55 coats in one), but am worried about toxic fumes remaining in my masks for longer times and affecting my customer's health.

     The great mask Maker W.T. Benda used real Gold Leaf, with the traditional sizing underneath, for the insides of his paper strips masks. They were used extensively for theatre performances and were reported to be so strong they didn't seem to age. They last to this day.

     I have no budget for the gold leaf itself, but
     if I found the sizing at a lower price, maybe it would be our solution.

     Good luck!

5. • Anonymous 2 years, 9 months ago

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   • Have you tried painting a layer of undiluted PVA over the inside of the mask? This should act as a sealant and prevent the breath moisture getting into the mask. It is also wise to seal any cut or raw edges with undiluted PVA as well.

     Alan C

6. • Anonymous 2 years, 5 months ago

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   • Hi, PVA or "white glue" is absolutely not a durable finish. sure, it wil protect for some time, but it is impossible to tell how long, because everybody sweats differently.

     I am having MAJOR problems right now, as my first Commedia masks are premiere tonight, and I still have to repair the masks.
     Sweat again!
     I tried Weldbond (works for my face, but not that actor's) lacquer (only delays the inevitable) and epoxy gluue in some areas (peels off paper mache eventually).

     Adding spaces between mask and face for air circulation is an option I shall integrate soon, and for now I'm patching the paper mache strip masks with weldbond, and adding some waterproof padding until this run of the show is over. I will plastify all the masks with a two-part resin if i have to. Seems a bit extreme, but my customers are HEAVY sweaters.
     They even are trying to wear panty liners inside the masks, an old trick I heard about and suggested to them.

     Seems direct contact with the sweaty skin is the worst, and that's where the most dammage occurs.
     (whitening, then peeling of paper).

7. • AlanC 2 years, 5 months ago

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   • Hmm, I see your problem. Having just done a Commedia performance, the masks do get sweaty. I have two pieces of foam in mine to hold the mask off my face and make in comfortable, 1 at the forhead and the other just under the nose. This should keep the sweat off the mask.

     The only other thing I can think off is a waterproof varnish or wood sealant which should be readily available, unfortunately these smell a bit and would need time to cure.

     Good luck!

8. • galapas 2 years, 4 months ago

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   • urithand wood cealer. brush it on thick hard plastic like

9. • Anonymous 2 years, 2 months ago

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   • Try Varathane water-based polyurethane. No solvents, so it's low odor. James

10. • sarinaburke 1 year, 2 months ago

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    • Hi I wonder if someone can tell me what is the best way to seal the paper mache roman pillars the stand 4 feet high and of course are hollow but sealed at both ends some one suggested I give it 2 coats of polyurethene varnish and then paint them the colour I need them to be and then give it another coat of varnish it sounds like a good idea but when I went to the paint shop they were not really sure it would work. would anyone have any idea as I need to do this job urgently so I can hire them out for wedding functions
      Thanks
      SB

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