MAKING MASKS: Layered paper , plaster casts, and materials

1. • Anonymous 2 years, 9 months ago

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   • Hello, I'm new here but have been making masks since late 1999. I have a site (of sorts) which shows the various masks I've made as well as some in-progress photos of the masks: http://enchantedmasque.livejournal.com/profile

     My explanation:
     I've tried what I've heard referred to as the 'layered paper' technique...which pretty much just involves using strips of tissue paper covered in glue and layering it over an object -in this case, a cast of a face. I've used this method over store bought plastic masks several times and I've used watered down Elmer's glue each time and have loved the effect. -I've also heard watered down wallpaper glue is a good substance to use with this technique.
     I hope to soon be having a plaster mold and cast made of my face and I'll be using the cast as a base for my use of the 'layered paper' technique.

     The questions:
     *I'll be using strips of cheesecloth (or similar material) dipped in soupy plaster of paris which will be layered over my petrolieum jelly covered face. Before pouring plaster of paris into the mold to form the cast what should I use as a non-sticking agent? I've heard elsehwere that you can use Pam the non-stick cooking spray as a releasing agent...is that a good idea?

     *Should I seal the plaster cast before making masks on it and if so, what should I use as a sealant? I have a bottle or two of Folk Art acrylic (clear matte and gloss) sealant -would that work?
     -Would this same sealant also work on the layered paper mask?
     I use acrylic paints on my masks anyways...so I need something that will mesh well with acrylic paint.

     *And where can I find decorative, wooden spindle-like, handles for masks? I've looked around on ebay and googled like crazy but can't find anything satisfactory. I've also looked around my local hardware stores but they don't have what I'm looking for.

     *I'm wanting to start using tibetan wool hair on my layered paper masks...what is a good glue for this sort of thing and what kind of dyes could I use on the wool for differant colors? (i.e.-brown, black, white, blond, blue, green, etc.)

     *Does anyone know where the 'layered paper' technique originated from? I've heard it said that mask makers from old Italy used a tehnique similar to this one if not the same. And could this kind of mask making be called Venetian?
     -Also, what is required of a mask to be called "Venetian"?

     Thank you so much!!
     ~Masked_Sphinx

2. • Masked_Sphinx 2 years, 9 months ago

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   • Sorry -wasn't logged in when I posted this set of questions.

     ~Sphinx

3. • Anonymous 2 years, 9 months ago

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   • For release, just use petroleum jelly in a thin coat over the inside of the mould. However, if you wish to use your mould more than once, ensure that you have a good thickness of plaster impregnated cheesecloth as it can tear. Some craft shops (well, here in the uk they do) sell plaster cloth anyway.

     I have only made masks from negative moulds, and I use good old petroleum jelly to stop the paper sticking. This also works on positive moulding and means you don't need to seal the plaster cast.

     As a sealant on your paper masks, you can use a coating of PVA glue, or an acrylic varnish, glossy, matt or satin. Be careful with non acrylic varnishes as some will dissolve your paint!

     I can't help with the other questions, but would suggest going to craft shows for turned wooded handles, some light-pulls would be suitable and you can then glue some dowel into these to create your own mask handles.

     Alan C
     

4. • Masked_Sphinx 2 years, 9 months ago

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   • Hello and thanks for replying back:) I've been eager for any suggestions or helpful tips!

     I do want to reuse my mould and the cast several times. Should I seal the inside of the mould so that the petrolieum jelly doesn't harm it? I've looked around for plaster cloth and haven't found anything outside of stiff paper mache strips -which is not what I'm looking for. I've tried it before and it was too brittle.

     I've heard many people mention making masks from negative moulds and while I think I understand what is meant, would you mind explaining to me the differance between the neg. and pos. sides of masks? I'm continually confusing which is which. And would you mind explaining to me how you make masks from the neg. sides of a mold?

     I recently saw one of the handles I'm looking for, in person, though it was attached to another mask and I was surprised to find that the handles are not wood but some kind of hard plastic or acrylic. That's not to say that all the handles are, of course...but these were attractive nonetheless:)

     I've used plain dowel rods in the past and while they do work and serve their purpose, I'm ready for something more detailed and attractive, you know?

     Thank you:)

5. • Anonymous 2 years, 9 months ago

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   • Hi there,

     I have just used petroleum jelly as a releasing agent, and not had any problems - I've just made 12 masks from 2 moulds for a play! I have heard that some mask makers soak their plaster casts in water if they have been stored for some time to stop them being too brittle.

     Personally I would be dubious about completely sealing the plaster cast as then it can't "breathe". Any moisture still in the mould would be sealed in. I'm not sure if this would present problems, but I haven't been making masks long enough to have experienced any problems. The people who have taught me don't seal their casts.

     As far as positive and negative go, the easiest explaination is like this: If you buy a plain plastic mask from a shop, the positive side is the side of the mask you decorate, the negative side is the side that goes over your face. If you light the negative side(or inside) correctly it can look like a positive (or outside).

     When I make a mask, I use the plaster cast of my face (unsealed) and place it on some clay on a board. This is so as to raise the level of my 'face' so that I can mould round the side of my head if required.
     I then use clay over the cast of my face and mould the clay into the shape I want. (Currently I am making a set of Commedia masks).
     Once this clay 'positive' is to my satisfaction, I build a wall of clay around the mask - it doesn't need to be more than 3inches (8 cm) high, except at the nose (usually the highest point of the mask) where your clay needs to be higher than the nose.
     Cover any bits of exposed plaster with Petroleum Jelly to prevent the next lot of plaster sticking to it, or cover it with a layer of clay.
     Mix your plaster of paris and pour a thin layer over your clay mould ensuring the plaster flows into all the details. Continue stirring your plaster until it starts to thicken and then pour over your mould - you will need to get your hands in and shape it so you have a sort of cone shape completely covering your mould. IMPORTANT! Make sure you have a flat top, (this will be your base!) The plaster hardens quite quickly, so you have to move pretty fast.

     Once the plaster has set and cooled, turn it over and remove the clay and the head cast. Carefully remove the clay from your mould - it will tend to stick in places and throw it away. (you can salvage it, but you have to soak it for 3 days then dry it and it's not that expensive!)

     You now have a negative mould. Be careful not to scratch the inside of this mould. When making a mask, coat the inside of the mould with a layer of petroleum jelly as a releasing agent, if you don't you'll never get your mask out!

     You then do your papier mache as normal - I use blotting or construction paper with a slightly watered down PVA glue. You can press your papier mache into the mould and because it takes the shape of the mould, it should require less finishing. 3-4 layers is a good amount. Ensure you create an overlap at the top of the mould to allow easier removal of the mask.

     Once the papier mache is done, (and you can put this away if you run out of time and come back to it as you are layering on the inside) set it aside to dry for at least 24 hours. The wetter your glue mix, the longer you need to leave it.

     Once it is dry, gently ease the mask out of the mould, this will take time and patience and does depend on the complexity of the mask. Once it is out, you just need to paint and sand as usual, cut out the eye holes and cut around the edges. A Scalpel or craft knife is preferable to scissors.

     Hope that helps. If not there is a step by step guide in Agostino Dessi's book (?35 or approx $62) or you can find on-line guides.

     With the handle issue - I've not come across anyone selling these. You could always mould some in clay and then cast them in a resin, that way you get exactly what you want. Other than that I've no idea.

     Sorry for the length of this reply! It's not meant to be a novel!

     Good luck.

     Alan C

     P.S. If I ever get round to taking some photos I'll put some pictures up.

6. • Anonymous 2 years, 8 months ago

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   • I have used wooden dowels from Home Depot...! They have them in many sizes and they are dirt cheap. Try that. It might work for you.

     Ivan.

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