After sculpting wet vegetable tanned leather over a plaster mold, is there a heat level or product to harden it? Also, is it better to pound the leather over the top of the mold, or into the back side of the negative mold?
The vegetable tanned leather gets hard when it dries, you dont need to warm it or treat it with anything to make it hard. Then it is good to paint in the inside of the mask with water based wood lack to protect it from the wearers swet. Also when the mask is finish and painted or dyed I use some colorless furniture beewax on it to protect the surface. I find it better to pound the leather on the positive mold than inside the negative. inside the negative mold it can get scratched and all scratch marks on the leather surface become very vissible when you dye or paint the mask. You have also to be carefull not to make any scratch marks when pounding the leather on the positive form.
Good luck
Augusto.
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